There are always problems with the injection part of the machin bòdi piki, how to solve it?
1. Cannot shoot glue
Approach:
1) The nozzle is blocked by foreign matter. Check whether the nozzle is blocked, clean or replace the nozzle.
2) The glue nozzle is broken. Disassemble the flange to check whether the glue nozzle is broken, and replace the glue nozzle.
3) La injection direction valve is stuck. Check whether the directional valve has 24V voltage and the coil resistance is 15-20 ohms. If normal, the valve is blocked. Clean the valve or replace the directional valve.
4) The rubber injection piston rod is broken. Loosen the rubber piston rod tightening nut, check whether the piston rod is broken, and replace the piston rod.
5) The temperature of the barrel is too low. Check whether the actual temperature reaches the required melting point temperature of the material, and reset the barrel temperature.
6) La oil seal of the rubber injection piston is damaged. Check whether the piston oil seal is broken and replace the oil seal.
2. The start sound of rubber injection is loud
Approach:
1) The injection speed starts too fast. Observe the start speed change of the injection speed, and adjust the injection flow rate.
2) There is air in the oil circuit. Observe whether there is vibration in each movement.
3. The sound is loud when the glue is stopped and the glue is melted.
Approach:
1) The movement conversion speed is too fast when shooting glue. Check whether the plastic injection has increased the holding pressure, increased the holding pressure, adjusted the number of injection levels, and delayed the addition of the melt.
4. The injection volume is unstable
Approach:
1) The oil seal of the oil cylinder is worn. Observe the pressure retention of the pressure gauge and replace the oil seal.
2) The rubber nozzle and rubber ring are worn out. Use 2 shots of glue to detect, replace the three-piece glue nozzle.
3) The barrel is worn out. It is detected with 2 injection nozzles, and the material is dismantled to check the wear and tear, and the melt glue tube is replaced.
5. Semi-automatic action without glue injection.
Approach:
1) The advancement of the shooting platform is not terminated. Check whether the travel switch before the injection station or the mold is normal, check the wiring and travel switch.
2) Disconnection. Check the wiring and rewire.
3) Reset the mold clamping to zero. When the machine hinge is straight, the position is 0, readjust the zero position of the electronic ruler.
6. When working in semi/automatic mode, the temperature of the barrel gradually exceeds the set value.
Approach:
1) The melting speed is too fast. Use a tachometer to test whether the screw speed is too fast, and reduce the melt speed.
2) Excessive back pressure. Observe the product, the back pressure gauge value, and reduce the back pressure as much as possible.
3) Friction between screw and barrel. Disassemble the screw and barrel, check the wear and tear, and replace the barrel or screw.
4) Improper temperature setting. Check whether the actual temperature is too low and reset the temperature.
5) The shearing heat of the plastic is too large. Check the temperature rise in the front and middle sections, reduce the speed of the melt, and the back pressure.
7. The screw sounds when melting glue
Approach:
1) Improper installation of the drive shaft. Separate the screw rotation to check if there is any noise, if there is any, remove the flat bearing and reassemble it.
2) The plane bearing is broken. Separate the screw and check that the rotating part has noise, then replace the flat bearing.
3) The screw is bent. Remove the screw for inspection and replace the screw.
4) The screw has iron filings. Disassemble the screw to check and clean the screw.
5) Use a dial indicator to check the coaxiality of the adjustment screw. The beating of about 0.05mm is normal.
8. Can’t melt glue
Approach:
1) Burning bearings or bursting of drive shafts. Separate the screw and melt the glue and observe the sound, replace the bearing.
2) The screw has iron filings. Separate the screw and the barrel, check the screw for iron filings, and remove the screw for cleaning.
3) The glue valve is blocked. Use the hexagon key to top the spool to see if it moves and clean the solenoid valve.
4) The glue motor is damaged. Separate the melter motor. When the melter does not turn, replace or repair the melter motor.
5) Burn out the heating ring. Check whether it is normal with a multimeter and replace the heating coil.
6) The plug is loose. Check whether the molten glue oil plug is in poor contact, connect the plug tightly, and check whether there is a 24 power supply.
9. The back pressure cannot be adjusted when melting glue
Approach:
1) The back pressure valve is broken. Increase the back pressure when cutting the material, check whether the screw retreats, and clean the back pressure valve.
10. The product has black spots
Approach:
1) The screw has carbon deposits. Check the cleaning screw and barrel.
2) There is carbon deposit in the barrel and the auxiliary machine is not clean. Check the feeder for dust, polish the barrel and clean the auxiliary machine.
3) Corrosion of the glue nozzle components. Check the glue nozzle and replace the glue nozzle assembly.
4) Flange and nozzle have carbon deposits. Clean up and replace.
5) The raw materials are unclean. Check raw materials and replace raw materials.
6) The temperature is too high and the back pressure of the melt is too large. Check the temperature of each section and reduce the back pressure.11. Poor screw color mixing
Approach:
1) Material problems. Check the toner quality and replace the material.
2) The temperature is too low. Check the actual temperature and the required temperature of the material, and increase the temperature.
3) The back pressure is too low, check the back pressure and increase the back pressure.
4) Short mixing time. Extend the mixing time or replace it with a mixing head.
5) The speed is too low. Check the screw speed and increase the screw speed.
12. No glue pulling action
Approach:
1) Large back pressure. Check the nozzle spraying speed when manually melting the glue to reduce the back pressure.
2) Disconnection. The pumping valve is disconnected.
3) The spool of the directional valve is not flexible. Press the spool with an Allen wrench to check whether it is free to move, and clean the spool.
13. When melting glue, the motor swings its tail
Approach:
1) The bearing is broken. Observe whether there is any abnormal sound when melting the glue, and replace the bearing.
2) Improper adjustment of oblique ball bearings. Observe whether the drive shaft swings, and readjust the gap.
3) Deformation of the screw. Separate the screw to observe the rotation of the drive shaft, and replace the screw.
4) The copper sleeve of the rear plate of the shooting table is worn and the 2 guide rods are deformed or the fixing screws are loose. Observe whether copper powder is ground out of the second plate copper sleeve, and replace the copper sleeve.
14. Shoot glue twice
1) The nozzle aperture is too small, and the resistance is too large when shooting glue.
2) The nozzle heating ring is broken, check the heating ring or replace it.
3) Check whether the pressure and flow output is changed.
15. Reasons for screw breakage
1) The shooting movement is not synchronized, adjust the shooting movement synchronization ±0.05
2) The injection cylinder is not synchronized, adjust the injection cylinder to synchronize ±0.05
3) The performance of the raw material and the screw of the injection molding machine are not matched.
4) The temperature does not reach the melting point of the material used.
5) Turn the screw until the temperature has just reached.
6) If the heating tube is burned out, it will not be heated. Check whether there is anti-cold function, and replace the heating tube.
16, can not adjust the mold
Approach:
1) The mechanical level and parallelism are out of tolerance. Check with a spirit level angle ruler to adjust the parallelism and level.
2) The gap between the pressure plate and the die-adjusting nut is too small. Measure with a feeler gauge, adjust the gap between the pressure plate and the nut, and adjust the gap between the die nut and the pressure plate (gap ≤ 0.05 mm).
3) Burn the nut to check whether the nut can be turned to generate heat and iron powder is coming out. Replace the nut.
4) Adjust the upper and lower support plates. Remove the lock nut of the expense board to check and adjust the adjusting nut.
5) The I/O board is broken. Check whether there is a signal at the output point on the computer page, and repair the electronic board.
6) The die-adjusting spool is stuck. Remove the valve to check and clean the valve.
7) The mold adjusting motor is broken. Check the oil motor. Replace or repair the oil motor.
How to set low pressure protection for injection molding machine mold clamping?
The meaning of mwazi piki protection: it is artificially set during the production process to protect the mold and prevent damage to the mold due to congenital causes and foreign objects. The behavior of mold protection: When setting the mold low pressure protection, where to understand the protection? Natirèlman, it uses low-pressure protection, sa vle di, it will alarm when a foreign body is pressed and will not damage the mold.
The specific approach is as follows:
Pou
1. First determine which part of the mold should be protected? Such as neutron, core pulling, inserting, sliding block, oblique pin, mold core, thimble, elatriye.
Pou
2. Then decide the distance to be set for the low-voltage protection. The contact position of the parts to be protected must be within the distance of the low-voltage protection you set, so that the low-voltage protection will be set. Within the scope of machine monitoring.
Pa egzanp, the contact position of the movable mold and the fixed mold is at 30mm during the mold clamping process. According to the dangerous situation, we set the low-pressure protection position at 32mm, so that when the mold is closed to 32mm, it will start to enter the low-pressure protection position. Within effective surveillance.
3. Determine the speed of mold clamping. This speed is also a relatively important parameter. It should not be too fast, but it is adequate. Too fast will produce a certain amount of inertia. The speed of this segment is better to be slow, generally not more than 15%, and the speed is determined later. , Don’t change it arbitrarily.
Pou
4. The pressure setting is more important. It is better to make the mold just fit into the parting surface contact of the mold with the minimum pressure. Reduce the minimum unit (pa egzanp, 1 pressure unit) and the mold will not fit into the parting. Face contact, use this pressure as the minimum pressure for low-pressure protection (it can be done so that you can put a piece of paper in and make the machine alarm).
Pou
5. Take the parting surface contact as the new standard, and add 0.1~0.3mm to this position as the high-pressure clamping position. This 0.1~0.3mm (recommended value) is to compensate for the thermal expansion and contraction of the mold material. Natirèlman, this compensation position can be set smaller, too small may cause frequent low-voltage protection alarms.
Pou
Remak: This setting may be at the expense of cycle time. Colleagues can set it according to the specific situation, but the above can be used as a general principle. At the same time of setting, pay attention to the tanperati mwazi must be stable, especially the high mwazi piki temperature mold thermal expansion, may produce temperature difference, affect the setting. After the low-pressure protection is set, changing the speed of the low-pressure protection at will may cause the set low-pressure protection pressure to be too high, which is the result of inertia.